MIKA Day 4

Let's talk some more about tertiary color topstitching threads, because I really can do that all day.

Or maybe not.

Alrighty, let's move along a little further along with MIKA. Today, Let's construct the pant legs. Let's see how far I get. I like this little bit of sewing every day. Having to post on my blog means I can't flake out. Nope, no blowing off 'til some other day! Maybe I should make a habit of this. Maybe we could start a flickr photo group. I know, I know, that's sooooo 2007. All the cool kids already have their flickr photo groups. What do you think?

MIKA Pant legs. Right. Okay.

The front pocket "fits" right where it belongs on the front upper panel. You should also match marks, just in case your cutting is a little off and also to keep the left and right sides symmetrical.

I've stitched the front pockets right and left just along the seam allowance to the front panel. I've used the serger and a four-thread over-edge stitch. Your straight stitch on a conventional machine just inside the fabric edge at 1/8th inch will also do the trick.

Now, I topstitch with my topstitching thread along the bottom edge of the pocket at 1/8th inch, thus securing the pocket in place and making it, um, a "pocket".

Next, I match marks for the front center panel (the one with the pocket on it now) and the front fly panel. I stitch the front fly panel to the center front panel with a straight stitch and before I finish and topstitch this seam, I stitch this seam on the opposite pant leg first. Then I compare the two pant leg pieces. This way, if the two sides are a little asymmetrical,  I can quickly seam rip that one seam and adjust.



As it happens, things look pretty good as far as symmetry, so I go ahead and finish each of these seams with the four-thread over-edge stitch. I press the seam toward the fly (so it looks like the pocket is fitting under the front fly panel) and topstitch with two straight lines. I could use a twin needle to topstitch and that would make the topstitching look more perfect, however, I do not have a twin spool of this topstitching thread.

Now I'll add on that little corner piece. Before finishing and topstitching, I'll stitch on the opposite side first, to again assure symmetry.

I'm going to move over to the back of the pant legs. The sequence of steps is not writ in stone. You'll notice that the back yoke piece is trapezoidal. Be sure to mark the top. The longer short side is in the center back.



Now let's stitch on the rear pockets. I've used the topstitching thread and stitched at 1/8th inch from the edge. This topstitching thread is really thick. This thread is not very conducive to making bar tacks at the pocket corners. I'd suggest putting bar tacks at the tops of your pockets for extra strength. (I've done this part of the sew-along in the evening. The photos looked in focus on the camera's display. They don't look so focused right now... Short of seam ripping this and doing it over in the morning, um, can you live with a few blurry images?)

Now I add on the bottom front piece...



...and the bottom back piece.



Now I stitch the front pant leg panel to the back pant leg panel along the outseam. I press the seam allowance toward the back, so it looks like the front pocket is fitting under the outseam.



With the flat pant leg finished, this would be a good time to add appliqué or embroidery. This is also a good time to add trim you'd like to go all the way around the leg. (Months and months ago would have been a good time for me to get my sewing machine to talk to the new laptop, so that I could embroider this...).



Before adding the cuff piece, I check for length. My client, an international fashion model and a star soccer player (who is going to be a doctor, a singer, a marine biologist and a sew-er, "like you, Mommy"), doesn't have much time for me. Places to go, people to see...But it seems that the pants are just about the right length without the cuff. I will have to decide if I want to trim the bottom, so I can add a cuff, or just forgo the cuff altogether. Seems like I shouldn't wimp out on the cuff if I'm doing a sew-along here on the blog. I'll sleep on it. I'll let the pants decide for me. Maybe they just don't need a cuff look-wise.

Well, tomorrow's another day! It's also the day Sarah Dear-Heart-Dukehart runs her first triathlon in Washington D.C. to benefit the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society. Go! Sarah! Go! You've trained for this. You'll do your best. YOU ROCK!!