fledge capable of flying, from Middle English flegge, from Old English -flycge; akin to Old High German flucki capable of flying,
Old English flEogan to fly -- more at FLY
intransitive verb, of a young bird : to acquire the feathers necessary for flight or independent activity

Monday, September 22, 2008

MIKA Let's finish up

So: Where was I? Yes: The waistband.

I have cut my waistband about an inch longer than on the pattern sheet, because I want to divide the waistband into three parts, the back middle part of which will be elasticized.

The back middle piece is cut the same length as the back of the pant legs, outseam to outseam. One of the remaining two side waistband pieces is cut about an inch longer than the other, because this one will be the one to overlap at the fly on the outside. To this longer side waistband piece, I also iron a bit of fusible interfacing to the wrong side where the snap will go later on.

I stitch two casings for 3/8th inch (1 cm) elastic and insert the elastic with the help of a safety pin.

On one side of this middle back piece, I secure the ends of the elastic with straight stitch at the seam allowance (right at the edge of the material). Please notice, I do no stitch all the way down to the lower edge of this piece. I will want the two sides of the waistband to remain separated from one another, so that they will fit over the waist edge of the trousers.

Once the one side of the elastic is secured, I cinch the fabric to the desired fit and secure the elastic with straight stitch on the other side. Again, I do not stitch all the way down to the bottom edge of this piece; I stitch just the elastic in place. Then I trim the elastic.

I press both short ends of the two side waistband pieces in about 1/4 inch. I press the two side waistband pieces in half lengthwise and unfold again lengthwise. I lay the middle back waistband piece between the two halves of the side waistband pieces, secure with pins and stitch with straight stitch. Again, I do not stitch all the way down to the waistband edge and I keep those two sides of the waistband separate at the bottom edge.

Now I am ready to attach the waistband to the pant legs. Right sides together, I pin one half of the two fabric edges to the waistband edge. I start pinning in the front at the underside of the fly. I make sure to carefully pin the seam allowance pressed inward.

I then stitch this one half of the waistband to the pant legs right sides together.

After removing the pins, I fold over the waistband over the top edge of the trousers and pin to the pant leg wrong side. I tuck the bottom edge under for a clean, finished edge. A few extra pins to keep that edge nice and tucked under is not a bad idea.

I also pin the short ends of the waistband to align for stitching.

Then I stitch with straight stitch, also along the top edge and the short ends.

All that's left is to hem the pant legs...

... and add a snap closure to the waistband!

And check in with Mellissa to see how the boys' version is coming along (looks great, Mellissa!).

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